Castle Rock 7420′ via SW Face Routes
Southern California
Total Time: ~4 hours
Distance: 1.6 miles
Elevation Gain: 650′
Crux: The Sphinx (5.6), Great Steps of Cheops (5.8), Ball and Chain (5.9+- 5.10a)
Pitches: 3 (TR)
Companion: Holly
Trailhead: Castle Rock TH, trash, no other services
Castle Rock is one of the most popular hikes in Big Bear Lake. A short but steep hike leads to the rocky outcropping with a fun class 3 scramble to the broad summit, with fantastic views of the lake. I had scrambled to the top on several previous trips to Big Bear, but had not attempted any of the 30+ technical lines scattered across its’ rocky faces. After a very fun outing on The Trough on Tahquitz Rock, we were looking for some more climbing in Southern California. All the routes were single pitch, either sport or trad, and I thought the SW Face Routes had some nice moderate options with the ability to top rope off the summit. With the short approach we woke up late, had breakfast in town, and headed to the trailhead at the SW corner of the lake. There were plenty of cars parked along the shoulder at the lot-less trailhead, and we grabbed our packs still full of gear from The Trough and headed up the trail. I had forgotten how nice this area of Big Bear was, with huge pine trees and boulders scattered along the trail.
There were plenty of hikers as we headed up along the dusty switchbacks, and Castle Rock was soon in sight with people milling around the summit. We reached an ill defined junction, with a use trail heading towards the scramble route to the summit and the main trail continuing along the south face. We continued on the main trail before heading up slope to the base of the Southwest Face, only to find a meetup group of about 10 climbers camped out at the base. This rock face didn’t have views of the lake, and the easier lines were taken by the meetup group, so we decided to scramble around the west side up to the summit and set up a top rope to climb The Great Steps of Cheops 5.8. Although it looked easy from below, considering I had yet to lead a 5.8 trad, especially in a new state, top roping seemed to be the smartest option.
I found the two bolt anchor for the line easily enough at the summit, and built a quick anchor out of slings before rappelling down before an excited audience of hikers. Holly started up the route first, enjoying the large flakes and chickenheads that made it almost like gym climbing.
I went up second, and aside from a tricky crack start, found the line to be easier than most 5.8s I’ve climbed in AZ. The meetup group was just finishing climbing the adjacent Sphinx 5.6 (which I had originally planned to lead), and had their anchor off two bolts on the rock face that was shared between The Sphinx 5.6 and Ball and Chain 5.9+-5.10a. There was another random anchor higher up that could also be used for the Sphinx, so I set up off that just as they were finishing to try the easier line. Holly again when up first, following a very featured crack system up to an interesting ledge and chimney and up to the anchor. The meet up was setting up the nearby Turret 5.8, and they offered to let us climb on their rope before they took it down, giving us a more direct line up Ball and Chain.
I went up first but found the route a bit contrived, as it was quite difficult to not use the easier moves of the nearby Sphinx lower down and the easier moves of the nearby Turret higher up. But I tried to follow the bolt line as best I could and enjoyed the challenging finish with small crimps up the near featureless rock to the anchor. Holly struggled not using the easier steps on the lower portion of the pitch, but did great on the harder moves near the top. It was nearly 1PM after we had climbed the 3 pitches, and I scrambled up to the summit to break down the anchors for us to head out.
We cruised down the easy trail back to the trailhead and headed into town for a late lunch and relaxing by the lake the rest of the afternoon.
