Condor Crags 2,690′ and South Finger 2660′
Rock Climbing – Pinnacles National Park
Total Time: 7:05
Distance: 6.4 miles
Elevation Gain: 2000′
Crux: 5.8+
Pitches: 8
Protection: Small rack, half dozen quickdraws, 70 meter rope
Companions: Holly
Trailhead: Chaparral trailhead, Pinnacles West Side
Another weekend with childcare in Monterey meant another day getting to climb in Pinnacles, again eyeing the High Peaks to climb a number of the spires, this time focusing on the central grouping, specifically Condor Crags and the Fingers. We hit a great weather window between two spring storms, and again headed to the west side of the park to try and mitigate potential crowds. We were a little early for a good display of spring flowers helping with crowd control, and the Chaparral trailhead was mostly empty when we pulled into a spot. We started up Juniper Canyon, heading up the now familiar switchbacks through the Tunnel Trail and up to the High Peaks ridgeline, directly below Hawkins Peak, the main objective of our last Pinnacles outing.
We headed south, passing Burgundy Dome and the Sponge before our first objective came into view- Condor Crags, the northern-most spire of the central collection. We followed the trail, climbing a series of steps blasted into the rock around the base of the spire before stopping at the base of a water groove on the east side and the start of the climb.
Due to rope drag and loose rock, the climb is typically split into three short pitches, with the crux coming off the ground with a tricky 5.8 start. With my height, I was able to place two cams from the ground (I believe a 0.5 and 0.3) to protect the opening sequence, with the difficulties easing considerably above the first few moves. I climbed about 20′ up to a large ledge and easily found the two bolt rappel station to bring up Holly. The second pitch climbed a 5.4 off width feature to the left, with plenty of knobs and holds on both sides obviating the need for any off width technique.
This led to a notch between the north and south summits of Condor Crags with a two bolt anchor near an overgrown tree. I decided to tag the north summit, scrambling up fourth class above the anchor to a wide ramp that wrapped around to the west side of the spire. Some easy third class on the west side brought me up to the summit and I quickly brought up Holly to join me as massive condors circled overhead, one swooping almost close enough to touch.
It was difficult to determine if the north or south summit was higher, looking fairly equal in height. The ramp to climb the south summit was wet and mossy, and the climbing did not look terribly appealing. So we decided to skip it for better rock, performing three short rappels back to the base of the climb. Back at our packs, we continued south, quickly reaching the next formation- North and South fingers.
Although both were rated 5.easy, the North Finger was difficult to protect with loose Pinnacles Rock by the standard route (although there is a new bolted climb on the north face), opting for the standard 5.5 route on the South Finger. I started up the low fifth class face with ample cracks for protection, trending right to avoid some overgrown shrubs and tunneling under a large boulder to a single bolt belay at the notch. I backed this up with a large cam and brought up Holly to join me. Dropping into the notch, a wide crack arched up and right towards the west face of the south finger.
I needed to stem between the two spires to get established on the face, then systematically bumped a #4 up the crack for protection while climbing the featured face right of the crack until I ended about 30′ below the summit on a detached pillar. From there, it was steep but featured climbing past 4 closely spaced bolts to the summit anchor. On the summit immediately to the south, Long’s Folly, sat two condors who watched curious as Holly climbed up to the summit to join me.
We both agreed this second climb was more enjoyable than Condor Crags, and spent some enjoying the summit and watching the two condors before performing a single rope rappel from the summit back to the base.
Rather than go after North Finger, we decided we should continue working south and head to the Flat Iron, a large pinnacle a short distance off the main ridgeline. I planned to summit the formation via Burton’s Below, a well bolted 5.9. I found this easily enough in the water groove on the southeast corner and racked up with a number of quickdraws before setting off.
I was surprised by how stiff the lower climbing was, fairly solid 5.9, feeling harder from questionable Pinnacles rock. I made it through the lower crux to easier climbing in the central section, leading to the final move to an overhanging roof, protected by a single bolt. I moved right of the bolt and peered over the lip, surprised by the lack of obvious holds that would keep the move 5.9. Reading MP comments later, it seemed like there were some hidden holds to the left that I never seemed to find. Although I figured I could probably make the move, it would be very committing with a belayer 75 lbs lighter and out of sight below, several feet above the bolt. So I ultimately decided it wasn’t worth it and traversed to the anchors below the summit band for Lost Fortune and lowered from there. We then top roped Lost Fortune 5.9 and the Regular Route 5.3 before packing it in and beginning our hike out, continuing south on the High Peaks trail before reaching the Juniper Canyon trail and starting our descent back to the trailhead.
It was just before 5 PM when we made it back to the trailhead, well timed to grab dinner before relieving our babysitter for the night back in Monterey.
