Hawkins Peak (Tuff Dome), Bynum Spire, Burgundy Dome and The Sponge

Hawkins Peak (Tuff Dome) 2,705′, Bynum Spire, Burgundy Dome 2,500′ and The Sponge 2495′
Rock Climbing – Pinnacles National Park
Total Time: 6:30
Distance: 5.5 miles
Elevation Gain: 1600′
Crux: 5.10d
Pitches: 6
Protection: Small rack, half dozen quickdraws, 70 meter rope
Companions: Holly
Trailhead: Chaparral trailhead, Pinnacles West Side

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Despite being an underrated gem of a National Park and climbing area, we had not been back to Pinnacles since Avery was born. With crumbly rock and variable approaches, it’s definitely not the most child friendly climbing area, but with our nanny moving to Monterey for college, we suddenly had childcare on the coast to head to the park for the day. Coming from Monterey, we headed into the West side of the park, with the main objective a climb of Hawkins Peak, the highest point in the High Peaks area, closed on prior trips due to raptor nesting closures. It was our first time approaching the High Peaks area from the west side, and we were entirely in shade as we climbed up Juniper Canyon on the cold November morning.

The trail switchbacked fairly aggressively towards the ridgeline, passing a series of crumbly spires and turning left at a junction before reaching a massive tunnel blasted into the rock. The work that the CCC did on the trails in the High Peaks area always amazes me- the blasting through boulders and chopping of steps into the rocks would never fly today.

It took us about an hour to reach the High Peaks ridgeline, and we turned left and easily found the use trail that led to Hawkins Peak, also known as Tuff Dome.

Although we were finally in the sun on the ridgeline, the planned route on Hawkins Dome was entirely in shade on the northeast face, and we overall would do a poor job of finding routes in the sun all day. Before tackling our main objective, I wanted to warm up on nearby Bynum’s Spire, with a straightforward 5.2 protected by a single bolt. After putting on our harnesses and shoes I started up the low angled north face, not recognizing I was well off the actual route until spotting the single bolt about 10′ to my right, more on the west-northwest face of the spire. I traversed easily over to it and clipped the single point of protection before mantling on to the summit, a pair of condors landing on Tuff Dome next door just as I topped out. I brought up Holly to join me, but the condors took off before she could join me. We rappeled down and set up a top rope on Rock Steady, a nice 5.7 that climbs a dihedral, originally protected with a few pitons that have since been bootied.

Although we were now warmed up for climbing, we still were not physically warmed up, moving to the northeast face of Tuff Dome to climb the standard route, climbing an easy ramp and off-width crack to a face protected by two bolts, leading to a notch. There was some poison oak near the edge of the ramp, and I took care not to touch it as I started up, slinging a broken tree route for protection partway up and placing a #4 cam in the easy off width section before reaching the bolts.

A cold wind was moving through the notch, and I quickly lost sensation in my fingers as I climbed to the two bolt anchor, putting Holly on belay and quickly bringing her up to join me. A group of three climbers were below us and hesitant to climb the route with only quick draws, so Holly towed up a rope for them to climb up, leaving them a tope rope set up at the anchors while I scrambled easy 3rd class up to the summit. The rappel anchors were on the opposite side on down the northwest face and I anchored in and gave myself a long leash to move back to the true summit, quickly bringing up Holly out of the windy notch and onto the sunny summit. As expected, the views from the highest pinnacle in the High Peaks region of the park were outstanding, looking down the spine of the High Peaks ridgeline towards North and South Chalone Peaks to the south.

We had a snack at the summit before rappeling the northwest face, leaving a top rope to climb one of the difficult 5.10s on the northwest face, hanging at the thin crux. I would later learn the climb was Aliens Ate My Buick, 5.10d, which felt about right.

It was only mid day and we had time for more climbing, although our main priority was finding something in the sun, skipping the easy 5.5 on nearby H and L Dome, now in full shade. We dropped back onto the main High Peaks trail, and subsequently wasted about an hour looking for routes on Spikes Peak (good stuff in the shade) and Dragonfly Dome (base in the shade and very windy). We ultimately worked back south along the High Peaks trail and settled on Burgundy Dome via the 5.7 rappel route, which although was in full shade, was at least protected from the wind.

The route climbed the scooped out east face directly off the trail, climbing past three bolts on interesting jugs and pockets to the two bolt anchor. I scrambled past to tag the summit then brought up Holly, taking another short break and a few photos before rapping back down to the base.

With a 2 mile hike out back to the trailhead, we had time for one more climb and continued south along the trail to the Sponge, with a long single pitch of 5.6 to tag that summit. We found the start easily enough on the southeast corner, the crux getting to the high first bolt. After that the bolts were tightly spaced leading to a more scrambly upper half, where I was able to get in a bomber #1 cam as well as a brown tricam in a pocket to protect the upper half. This was the longest pitch of climbing for the day, probably over 100′ and was by far my favorite. I again brought Holly up to the small summit and we rappelled down, a large group of climbers gathering at the base looking to make it their last climb of the day as well.

Throwing our gear back into our packs, we started back down the trail, heading back through the tunnel and back down into Juniper Canyon.

It was about 4 PM when we reached the trailhead, less than an hour of daylight left with temperatures dropping quickly. From there we hopped in the car and headed back north to Monterey, grabbing dinner in Seaside before relieving our babysitter for the night.