Totgoblin
Superstition Mountains– Rock Climbing
Total Time: 6:30
Distance: 4.0 miles
Elevation Gain: 1550′
Crux: 5.6
Pitches: 3
Companions: Holly, Colin Pickles
Trailhead: Siphon Draw Trailhead, $10 entrance, Trash, Toilets
In my quest to tick off Superstition spires (see also: Weavers Needle, The Hand, The Pickle and Crying Dinosaur) I became intrigued by one spire for the name alone- Totgoblin. The smallest of the Hobgoblin Spires, it is hidden high in Suction Gully surrounded by it’s taller Goblin neighbors, the most frequently climbed being Grandfather Goblin. Although rated only 5.6, like other Superstition spires, the rock is suspect at best and it sees few ascents. But the draw of the ridiculous name was enough to bring us to the Siphon Draw trailhead bright and early once again. We hiked along the Siphon Draw trail with heavy packs, reaching the base of Suction Gully and the Superstition Wilderness boundary sign quickly.
A thin use trail headed upslope at the sign through scattered grasses which we quickly lost, making our own way up the steep slope. The best use trail seemed to follow a shallow rib just to the right of the wash coming down from the gully, and we utilized this was much as possible until we neared the edge of the cliff faces that make up the walls of Suction Gully. The trail to this point wasn’t bad with the same approach for a route called Spider Walk, a run out Supersitions 5.7 that I hadn’t found the time or nerve to climb. We weaved around some of the larger boulders at the base of Spider Walk and entered Suction Gully proper.
The already steep approach steepened further, and we slowly worked up shifting scree utilizing thin game trails where ever possible. I had underestimated just how far up Suction Gully the Hobgoblin Spires were, and as we struggled up the loose gully, I remarked that we wouldn’t slogging up to this climb had the first ascentionist called it something less intriguing like “Reaper Spire.” Such is the life of a climber. The gully briefly narrowed as we passed Rink-Kudo, a 5.7R route, then widened into an upper basin. Here I was able to spot the start of the route, about 30 feet right of a deep chimney that separates Grandfather Goblin on the right and Mish Monster on the left. At this point we had gained so much elevation that we were over half way up the equivalent of Spider Walk!
I tied into my twin ropes, and after racking up, started up the first pitch. The first few moves off the ground were probably the most difficult at least mentally, with a small cam in iffy rock the only thing stopping a possible deck onto hard rock and a cat claw tree. I backed off a few times before finally going for it, the climbing becoming quite easy and broken up with large ledges. I headed up the path of least resistance, finding myself about 5 feet to the right of the anchors resulting in a short and easy downclimb to a 10′ well protected crack to the two bolt anchor.
Colin came up second on the pitch with Holly coming up last. The belay ledge was small for two people and very cozy for three, so I had them put me on belay to quickly traverse over to a larger ledge and base of a chimney that comprises the second pitch. Once they sorted out the ropes, I started up the chimney, most of it only 3rd or 4th class and very easy to protect. The second pitch was short and brought me to another two bolt anchor and a narrow saddle that I could straddle for the belay. I was blown away by this spot, with Totgoblin in the center of an amphitheater of spires, separated by a deep 30′ notch.
I immediately doubted that Holly or Colin would be game for the logistics of getting to the summit itself, really only a bout 15′ higher than our current belay. In the interest of rope management, I brought up Holly second followed by Colin, and the three of us straddled the narrow saddle in a row, looking at the small spire directly across the gap from us. At this point we had a few options. One would be for us all to rappel 30′ down to a ledge below, build a trad anchor, then I could lead up the final pitch from there. The ledge below looked very small for the three of us, and it was unclear if there was any cracks to build an anchor with. The next option would be for one of them to lower me off the two bolt anchor to the connecting rib of rock below where I could place a piece of pro. They could then take me off the two bolt anchor to reduce the drag and I could lead as normal. For them to follow, I could lower them as well, but they would need to untie to pull their rope through the anchor above. Both options would require me to lead back up to our current belay. The last option, which I didn’t even mention, involved both lead and following downclimbing, which I knew would have zero buy in from either Holly or Colin. After I briefly went through these scenarios, it became clear that neither were all that interested in the last pitch of climbing given all that was involved. Although it was a cool spire, it certainly wasn’t worth fighting over, and I agreed we would rappel from here and bail before the last pitch.
The top of the second pitch was still an amazing spot, and we spent a while enjoying the hidden collection of spires and eating a lunch before starting our single, two rope rappel back to our packs. Once the ropes were recoiled we started down, finding the descent out of Suction Gully even less enjoyable than the ascent given the looseness of the rock.
We were all relieved to get back to the grassy slopes at the base of Spider Walk, and switch-backed down through the grasses back to the trail. After answering a few questions from some passing hikers (Are you guys rappellers!?), we headed back down the Siphon Draw trail back to the trailhead.
Of note, I don’t typically share trip reports for unsuccessful trips. But information on Totgoblin is sparse, with the Best Climbs Phoenix Guide describing pitch 3 as “Climb the hidden spire behind the notch by it’s easiest route,” completely disregarding the not insignificant fifth class downclimbing to pull off the pitch, as well as the fact that you would need to reverse lead it on the return or perform a Tyrolean traverse. It is very doable, and the final pitch goes at 5.4 or easier, but it is worth knowing what you’re getting in to.